Rovaniemi for grown-ups: how to improve your odds of seeing the northern lights, which activities are worth paying for, where to end the day in a sauna and what it really costs for two.
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Couples and groups of friends going to Lapland for the first time and planning 4 to 5 nights. It works without a car, but chasing the northern lights is easier with one.
It’s not the right guide if you’re travelling with children (we have a separate guide, “Rovaniemi with kids”), if you want a ski resort (then Levi) or if you want to spend the whole week in the wilderness far from any town (then Inari or Saariselkä).

The nine question marks are real places we’d plan a grown-up trip around. They open, with names and photos, in the full guide, together with a Google map of every place, bar and stay we mention.
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You’ll read it online in your account, on your phone or laptop, and every price update is included.